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Five years after sanctions, Russian cheeses getting top marks
KOROLYOV, Russia, Nov 27, 2019 (BSS/AFP) – Elvira Kovtun made her first
cheese in a pot in her kitchen four years ago.
Kovtun, a housewife and mostly self-taught cheesemaker, became so good
that she and her husband decided to turn her passion into a business.
Last month, the high-school sweethearts and parents of three became the
first Russians to win a gold prize at the World Cheese Awards, with their
“Peshernyi” hard cheese taking the honour at the industry’s equivalent of the
Oscars.
“I didn’t think this was possible,” Elvira’s husband, Vyacheslav Kovtun,
told AFP at their small creamery in the industrial town of Korolyov, outside
Moscow.
“Now I believe in everything.”
The family’s success shows how far Russia’s cheese-making industry has
come since President Vladimir Putin banned Western food imports in 2014 in a
tit-for-tat measure over the Ukraine crisis.
Many Russians had developed a taste for French and Italian cheeses prior
to sanctions, and Moscow seized the opportunity to put in place an “import
substitution” strategy.
This supported local entrepreneurs trying to set up businesses to replace
imported goods.
The results were often mixed, however, with many customers complaining of
the higher price and often inferior quality of the Russian-made products.
But dairy farming and cheese-making have become a bright spot.
According to Russia’s National Association of Milk Producers, production
of cheese and cheese products grew by a third to 670,000 tonnes a year
between 2013 and 2018.
Last week Putin confessed he was “somewhat worried” when the first
punitive measures were introduced, but the events of the past few years
proved that the sanctions had worked to “our economy’s advantage”.
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RUSSIA-SANCTION-CHEESE-ECONOMY-FOCUS 2 KOROLYOV, Russia
– ‘Ground-breaking’ –
Hundreds of artisanal creameries have cropped up across the country and
some, like the Kovtuns, are winning top marks from international critics.
Elvira and Vyacheslav, who are both 40 and opened their Korolyov creamery
in 2018, had not expected success to come so quickly.
When Elvira called her husband to break the news of the award last month,
she was sobbing, Vyacheslav said.
“I got scared. I thought something terrible had happened,” he said with a
smile.
Their creamery’s website crashed from interest after the awards were
announced and the winning cheese sold out until April.
More than 3,800 cheeses from 42 countries were in competition at this
year’s World Cheese Awards in Bergamo, Italy, where products are awarded
supergold, gold, silver or bronze prizes.
At last year’s competition no Russian entries were recognised but this
year the Kovtuns’ “Cheese & Beer” creamery and three other Russian
cheesemakers won a total of nine awards.
John Farrand, the managing director of the Guild of Fine Food which
organises the competition, said the Kovtuns had put Russia on the
international cheese map.
“Our gold winners are some of the best in the world and only a small
percentage of entries do this well,” Farrand said, praising their Peshernyi
cheese for “delivering a true sense of terroir”.
He said Russia’s lack of the cheese-making heritage of France or Italy
could in some ways be an advantage.
“Free from the pressures of tradition, the country’s artisans can innovate
and produce something ground-breaking and unique,” Farrand said in written
comments to AFP.
Elvira said she spent several years perfecting Peshernyi and the recipe is
a closely guarded secret.
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RUSSIA-SANCTION-CHEESE-ECONOMY-FOCUS 3 LAST KOROLYOV, Russia
– ‘Cheese fever’ –
With its nutty and fruity hints, Peshernyi matures for seven months in a
cellar and sells for 1,800 rubles ($28, 25 euros) a kilo.
“I can’t last a day without cheese,” Elvira said, placing curd grains in
moulds with the help of an assistant.
“These are all my babies. I love them.”
The Kovtuns now make 20 soft and hard varieties including camembert and
truffle brie, employing a handful of staff.
They produce cheeses five days a week but demand far outstrips supply.
Yevgeny Barabanshchikov, a chef and connoisseur of European cheeses who
traditionally shunned Russian-made dairy products, went to meet the Kovtuns
as soon as he learned of their success in Bergamo.
“My interest is professional,” said Barabanshchikov, executive chef at
Integrita, a top supplier of high-quality imported food.
“I was very pleased for them because I know the cheese-making technology,”
he told AFP, stressing that hard cheeses require a lot of investment,
expertise and good-quality milk.
One of the people who has most championed the Kovtuns is their competitor
Oleg Sirota, arguably Russia’s best-known cheesemaker.
“The more good creameries we have, the more people will trust us,” said
the 31-year-old head of the Union of Russian Cheesemakers.
He himself took his first gold at a regional competition in France in
October.
Sirota recalled how Vyacheslav, who owned a construction firm at the time,
ambushed him at a gas station outside Moscow in 2016, saying he wanted to
learn the business of cheese-making and was ready to sell his company.
“I was stunned,” Sirota said.
They now help each other, plan to expand their operations and praise Putin
for creating what Sirota calls Russia’s “cheese fever”.
Vyacheslav said Russia’s modern cheesemakers are continuing a long
tradition.
“We are not inventing anything new,” he said. “We made a lot of cheese a
hundred years ago and exported it to Europe and the Baltics. We are now
reviving our forefathers’ recipes.”
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